Jerash, located in northern Jordan about 48 kilometers from the capital Amman, is one of the best-preserved ancient Roman provincial cities in the world and often referred to as the “Pompeii of the East.” The city, known in antiquity as Gerasa, flourished under Roman rule and became a member of the Decapolis, a federation of ten cities in the eastern frontier of the Roman Empire. Its ruins today offer a rare and extraordinary window into Roman urban planning, architecture, and daily life, making Jerash one of Jordan’s most significant archaeological treasures and a highlight for visitors interested in history, culture, and heritage. The city’s origins stretch far beyond the Roman era, with archaeological evidence indicating settlement as early as the Neolithic period, but it was the coming of General Pompey in 63 BCE that truly integrated Jerash into the Roman world. During the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century CE, the city reached the height of its prosperity, boasting colonnaded avenues, massive temples, theaters, plazas, baths, and city walls, all of which demonstrate the sophistication of Roman engineering and urban design adapted to the Levantine landscape. Walking through Jerash today is like stepping back in time, as its ruins remain remarkably intact compared to other ancient cities, allowing visitors to vividly imagine the grandeur and vibrancy of Roman civilization at its eastern frontier.

The approach to Jerash is immediately dramatic. Visitors are greeted by the monumental Hadrian’s Arch, also called the Triumphal Arch, which was erected in 129 CE to commemorate Emperor Hadrian’s visit. Standing nearly 13 meters tall, the arch is richly decorated with reliefs and was originally intended to serve as a southern gateway to the city, though the city’s expansion never fully reached this area. Passing through this arch sets the stage for the breathtaking ruins that lie within. Beyond the arch lies the Hippodrome, a massive stadium that once hosted chariot races and other sporting events, capable of seating up to 15,000 spectators. The Hippodrome has been partially restored and today occasionally hosts reenactments of Roman army drills and gladiatorial combat, giving modern audiences a taste of the thrilling spectacles that entertained the ancient citizens of Gerasa. From here, the South Gate leads into the heart of the ancient city, where the scale and organization of Roman urbanism become immediately apparent.

The Oval Plaza, or Forum, is one of Jerash’s most iconic landmarks. Unlike the rectangular forums typical of Roman cities, Jerash’s forum is an elongated oval, measuring 90 by 80 meters and surrounded by a colonnade of Ionic columns. This unique design gives it a theatrical quality, creating a sense of grandeur and openness. In antiquity, it was the civic and commercial hub of the city, where people gathered for political, social, and religious purposes. Today, it remains one of the most photographed spots in Jerash, a vast open space with stone paving still intact and flanked by columns that appear to march endlessly toward the horizon. Radiating from the forum is the Cardo Maximus, the main colonnaded street of the city, stretching over 800 meters and lined with rows of Corinthian and Ionic columns. The street still bears the original paving stones, complete with the ruts left behind by the wheels of ancient carts, a haunting reminder of the bustling activity that once filled the city. Along the Cardo, remnants of shops, public fountains, and administrative buildings testify to Jerash’s status as a prosperous commercial hub. At intersections, one can still see the stone drains and water channels, evidence of the sophisticated infrastructure that ensured the city’s smooth functioning.

Among the most impressive monuments of Jerash are its temples. The Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the city’s patron goddess, is a masterpiece of Roman religious architecture. Built in the 2nd century CE on a commanding hill, the temple once featured twelve massive Corinthian columns at its entrance, eleven of which still stand, towering majestically against the sky. The temple complex was richly decorated, with intricately carved capitals, massive staircases, and altars that reflect the wealth and devotion of the city’s inhabitants. The Temple of Zeus, located near the South Theater, predates the Temple of Artemis and was built in the 1st century CE. Though partially ruined, it still conveys an aura of grandeur, standing on a high podium with sweeping views of the forum and the rest of the city. These temples were not only religious centers but also important symbols of civic pride, linking Gerasa to the divine order upheld by Rome.

Theaters in Jerash also reveal the cultural sophistication of its citizens. The South Theater, completed around 90 CE, could seat more than 3,000 spectators and remains remarkably well-preserved. Its acoustics are so finely tuned that a speaker standing on the stage can be heard clearly by someone sitting in the top rows without amplification. Even today, it is used for performances, especially during the annual Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts, which brings music, dance, and theater back to the ancient stage. The North Theater, smaller in size and built later in the 2nd century CE, was primarily used for city council meetings and later for performances, highlighting the civic as well as cultural functions of Roman theaters. Together, these venues underscore the importance of public entertainment and civic life in Gerasa.

Public baths, nymphaea (ornamental fountains), and monumental gateways further demonstrate the city’s prosperity and the Roman emphasis on communal life. The Nymphaeum, a grand public fountain built in 191 CE, is adorned with elaborate carvings of lions’ heads and niches for statues, and once featured a cascading flow of water that brought refreshment and beauty to the heart of the city. Jerash also had several bath complexes, which not only served hygienic purposes but also acted as social gathering places where citizens could relax, conduct business, and engage in conversation. The city was surrounded by strong defensive walls stretching nearly 3.5 kilometers, punctuated by towers and gates, which protected it during times of unrest. The urban layout of Jerash reflects a perfect blend of Roman grid planning with adaptations to the hilly terrain of northern Jordan, showcasing the ingenuity of its planners.

The decline of Jerash began in the later centuries of the Roman Empire. The city suffered during the Persian invasion in the 7th century and later during the earthquake of 749 CE, which devastated much of the region and left many of its grand monuments in ruins. Though the city was never completely abandoned, it diminished to a small rural settlement overshadowed by newer centers of power. Rediscovered by European explorers in the early 19th century, Jerash gradually attracted archaeological interest, and systematic excavations began in the 20th century. Today, ongoing restoration and preservation efforts, often conducted in collaboration with international teams, continue to reveal new insights into the city’s history and ensure its survival for future generations.

Modern visitors to Jerash are struck not only by the grandeur of its ruins but also by the atmosphere they evoke. Unlike many ancient sites where only fragments remain, Jerash’s streets, theaters, temples, and plazas create a coherent and immersive experience, allowing one to walk the same paths as Roman citizens did nearly two millennia ago. The annual Jerash Festival brings this heritage to life, transforming the ruins into a living stage for cultural exchange. The city also provides a deeper understanding of Jordan’s layered history, bridging Greco-Roman civilization with Byzantine and early Islamic periods. Surrounded by rolling hills and olive groves, Jerash remains a place where history and landscape combine to form a powerful narrative of endurance, cultural fusion, and human achievement.

In sum, Jerash – the ancient Roman ruins of Gerasa – stands as one of the most impressive testimonies to Roman civilization outside Italy. Its triumphal arches, colonnaded streets, theaters, temples, and plazas reveal the richness of life in a provincial city at the height of the Roman Empire. The site offers not only aesthetic beauty and architectural marvels but also profound insights into how Rome projected its power, culture, and organization across distant territories. Walking through Jerash is to journey through time, experiencing the echoes of a city that once rivaled the greatest urban centers of its age. It is a reminder that history is not confined to dusty texts but lives on in the stones, streets, and monuments that continue to inspire awe in all who visit.